Tag Archives: travel

Visiting Tanzania

I recently visited Tanzania on holiday with my family, spending a week on safari and a week at a hotel on Zanzibar. It is an amazing country and one which I think more people should consider visiting.

On our safari we saw an incredible number of big animals. Lions, cheetahs, giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, zebra, elephants, wildebeest, buffalo, warthogs, ostriches, flamingos, hyenas, jackals, gazelles, baboons, monkeys and much more. Here are a few of the photos I took (from over a thousand!):

In the national parks the animals are quite used to safari trucks and don’t pay them much attention. We got within a few meters of lions and elephants. We spent an hour parked right next to a pride of lions, including some very young lions. The one other truck left, so we had a whole pride of lions to ourselves. We were so close I thought our driver was going to run over a lion’s tail at one point, as he repositioned the truck. We also saw a leopard and a couple of rhino, but only from a distance.

There were a few instances where there were 10 or 20 trucks crowded together trying to view something. But this was mercifully rare. Perhaps it is more of an issue in peak season in some of the more famous locations, such as the Ngorongoro crater.

There were some wild monkeys living in the grounds of the hotel we stayed at on Zanzibar. They seemed as curious about us as we were about them.

We didn’t see a lot of insects or spiders, apart from lots of ants. I am interested in bugs, so that was a bit disappointing for me (other family members felt differently). The army ants were fascinating to watch, but also surprisingly fast at climbing up your trouser leg to bite you on the arse. We saw lots of lizards, but no snakes.

The accommodation we stayed at were smart lodges and camps. One of the camps we stayed at was in the Serengeti. The accommodation was in tents, but they were quite grand tents. They even had voice operated showers – you asked the man for a shower at 6pm and he turned up at exactly 6pm and filled up the gravity fed shower tank with hot water! Wild animals regularly wander through the camp at night. It is quite an experience to get escorted from the dinner tent to your bedroom tent by a Maasai with a spear.

On safari you will almost certainly travel in a modified Toyota Landcruiser. These generally seat 7 plus a guide/driver. They are pretty comfortable and the pop-top is excellent for viewing animals and taking photos.

The night sky in Tanzania is amazing. But it can be a struggle to find somewhere dark enough to fully appreciate it. When you are out in the bush it is properly dark, but you can’t wander off without risking becoming a lion or hyena snack. It would be great if lodges and hotels turned off all their lights for 15 minutes every night.

Tanzanians seem fairly laid back. Apparently there are 120 ethnic groups, but they seem to get along pretty well. You will hear ‘Hakuna Matata’ a lot, which is Swahili for ‘no problem’ (it wasn’t invented by Disney). I didn’t get any sense that mzungu (white people) were resented. We did get people trying to sell us stuff, but it was never aggressive. Our driver/guide (Lazaro) was brilliant and spoke good English. The staff at all the camps and lodges were very obliging, even if things did sometimes get lost in translation.

It is amazing to see all the children walking to and from school. Some of them very young and unaccompanied. Apparently it isn’t unusual for them to walk 5 to 10 km each way, every school day! I felt it was good for my 18 year old son to see first hand what life is like in a developing country, and not take our western lifestyle for granted.

Tanzanian health and safety is definitely not up to European levels. One of our group lent on a substantial-looking metal fence in the Ngorongoro crater. It immediately gave way and he fell, hurting his ribs and shoulder quite badly. He only just missed hitting his head on a big rock, which could have easily been fatal. On closer inspection, most of the bolts were missing from the fence. I also got a shock off a light switch in a hotel. So do bear that in mind and definitely have medical insurance.

While the main draw of Tanzania is the animals, the scenery is also pretty spectacular. We were within sight of Kilimanjaro for a few days, but the top was obscured in cloud throughout.

I would recommend Tanzania to anyone who wants to visit Africa to see animals. We had a great time. Just be careful about what fences you lean on!

Notes

  • You will probably need to arrange a visa online before you go. This was relatively straightforward and granted within a few days.
  • The currency is Tanzanian shillings (about 3000 to 1 GBP). You can’t take Tanzanian shillings out of the country, which means are unlikely to be able to get them until you land. US dollars are also widely accepted, as long as the notes aren’t too old or damaged.
  • You can get a Tanzanian e-sim for your phone from companies like Airalo. But don’t expect much reception outside cities. Most of the camps and lodges we stayed at had reasonable wi-fi at least some of time. Good enough for work email, anyway.
  • Prices in shops are (mostly) negotiable. Expect to haggle for souvenirs.
  • A lot of Tanzania is quite high in altitude and the temperatures were quite pleasant when we visited in June/July.
  • English is reasonably widely spoken, especially by people working in guiding, hotels, shops etc. Some of the guides also speak other European languages.
  • Tanzania is quite a conservative country with a large Muslim minority, especially on Zanzibar. So bear that in mind when choosing your wardrobe (ladies especially).
  • Food was good at the various lodges and camps we stayed at. It was generally a big breakfast, a choice or packed lunch and a three course dinner. My being vegetarian wasn’t a problem.
  • Lodges and camps have a tip box and it is customary to put a tip in the box as you leave, rather than tipping individual staff.
  • Malaria is an issue. So it is a good idea to cover up and use DEET. Especially at dawn and dusk. Light coloured clothing is generally recommended. I was a vision in beige. All the rooms had mosquito nets. None of us got bitten more than a handful of times.
  • We all took malaria medication. But I reacted violently to this after a week, exploding at both ends (not quite simultaneously, thankfully). Our guide said that this reaction was relatively common. I stopped taking the medication and was nearly back to normal after 24 hours. No one else in our group had a reaction. I am a special snowflake.

Tips on travelling with a laptop

airbus a380I recently returned from a month’s holiday in New Zealand. As a one-man software company I still have to check my email every day, even on holiday. Here are a few tips from my experiences of running my business from a laptop whilst travelling.

Laptop

In theory you can run your business from a Blackberry or a mobile phone that supports email. But it is impossible to answer some support emails if you can’t run your own software. So I took a Toshiba laptop PC with a 13 inch screen with me. I find a 13 inch screen is a good compromise between portability and ease of use. Much bigger and it would have been too bulky. Much smaller and I would have struggled with the screen and keyboard.

The laptop contained my licence key generator and customer database. I owe it to my business and my customers to keep these secure and the Windows password is no protection at all if someone gains physical access to  your machine. So anything sensitive was encrypted using the free Truecrypt software. Whenever I brought the laptop out of hibernation or restarted it I just had to type the password to mount the Truecrypt volume as a virtual drive[1][2].

laptop lockI took a combination laptop lock, but I rarely used it. The problem with laptop locks is that the only things strong enough to secure your laptop to are usually in plain view, and a laptop left in plain view is a bit of an invitation. Locked or not. I am also not convinced how strong the laptop security slot is. I suspect an attempted theft would wreck the laptop, even if it wasn’t successful. So I generally prefer to keep the laptop with me or hide it somewhere a crook wouldn’t think to look. I have since found out that laptop locks aren’t even very secure (see here and here). There are still occasions when a laptop lock is better than nothing though. Incidentally, don’t rely on that padlock on your hold baggage either.

The laptop was also invaluable for playing Thomas the Tank Engine DVDs (using Windows Media Player) to keep my little one occupied for part of the very long flights and for backing up photos from the digital camera. I also took a universal power adapter.

Laptop bag

I have a traditional Targus laptop bag with a shoulder strap. But I have found this uncomfortable for carrying a laptop any distance due to the uneven distribution of weight. It also makes it extremely obvious that you have a laptop. A fact I would rather not advertise.

wenger-swissgear-hudson-1wenger swissgear hudson laptop rucksack bagFor this trip I purchased a Swissgear Hudson laptop rucksack from Swiss Army knife manufacturer Wenger. It was much more comfortable to wear with the weight distributed across both shoulders and left both hands free for dealing with passports, boarding passes and a bored two year old. It was small enough to take on to an aircraft as hand luggage, but surprisingly spacious. It also had some useful extras, including: a carry handle, a breathable back and a compartment for an MP3 player. I was impressed with the quality of the construction and finish. My only quibble is that there wasn’t as much padding around the top and bottom of the laptop as I might have liked. So I wrapped my laptop in bubblewrap for additional protection. But on the whole I would recommend this bag highly for travelling.

Back-ups

As well a backup on DVD I also took a 2 Gig USB memory stick that contained everything I would need should my laptop malfunction or be stolen. This included copies of my licence key generator, customer database and various passwords. All the sensitive files were encrypted using the free Axxcrypt software, except my passwords which were encrypted using the free Keepass software. The memory stick also stored various third party software installers (including Axxcrypt and Keepass). I kept the memory stick on a lanyard around my neck when I wasn’t sleeping.

I also stored an additional encrypted back-up on a secure server.

Internet access

Trying to find holiday accommodation that was the right size and budget, in the right location and free at the right time was problematic. Insisting on broadband Internet as well was a step too far. I also wasn’t keen on relying on broadband at accommodation. What if it didn’t work? Relying on Internet cafes seemed an even worse idea. What if I couldn’t find one? And the security issues of using Internet cafes are very real. So I needed my own mobile Internet access.

The roaming charges for using my UK three networks mobile Internet in New Zealand are an outrageous £6/MB. Vodaphone has more sensible roaming charges for some plans, but I couldn’t justify the high monthly price for the occasional trip abroad. So I tried to find a company that would rent me mobile data access in New Zealand for a month, without success. In the end my brother-in-law very kindly sorted me out with a USB mobile modem and a 1GB/mo data plan with Telecom New Zealand. He picked the modem up cheap second-hand on trademe.co.nz and the data plan was of the order of $70NZD/mo, with no minimum term. So, rather than paying >£1000, I ended up paying about £50 (thanks Derek!). There is definitely a business opportunity for someone there.

I am glad I didn’t rely on broadband at the accommodation. It turns out that most of the New Zealand ISPs have restricted SMTP access to prevent spam. So I could receive email via IMAP when plugged in to an xtra.co.nz broadband cable, but I couldn’t connect to their SMTP server to send email. Thankfully I didn’t have this problem with the mobile broadband or I would have been stuck with webmail for a month (the horror!).

Mobile coverage is patchy outside the bigger cities in the South Island of New Zealand, due to the low population density (sheep can’t afford broadband). But I was able to get some sort of signal everywhere we stayed. This might have been helped by the aerial attached to the mobile modem. During the month a I used approximately 40% of the 1GB allowance. I could have used quite a lot less, if necessary.

Stopping over in Singapore I just purchased wifi access from the hotel. It was quite expensive, but I didn’t need it for long. Wifi and hardwired Internet access are available for free in Singapore airport (I couldn’t get the wifi to work, so I just plugged in a network cable).

Conclusion

Running an Internet-based business while travelling isn’t that difficult, with a bit of planning. I doubt my customers even realised I was on holiday. What are you waiting for?

PS/ New Zealand is lovely.

[1] Truecrypt can also encrypt the whole OS, but that seemed excessive for my requirements and I wasn’t sure what impact it would have on performance.

[2] If Truecrypt is so easy to set-up and use, why is it apparently beyond the capabilites of the UK government to encrypt sensitive data?

Photo of Airbus A380 by Claire Brice